Category: Home Painting

How Long Can a Sealed Can of Interior Paint Last?

Old cans of interior paint may stay usable for many years if they have been kept tightly sealed and stored away from freezing temperatures. Evaluation old paint stirring it well, then brushing it on to old newspapers. If there are lumps in the paint, it is no longer good and ought to be discarded.

Paint’s Shelf Life

The shelf life of paint depends on the kind and whether the paint container was opened. Solvent-based oil or alkyd paints can stay usable for up to 15 years when they were not opened and always kept away from temperature extremes. Water-based latex and acrylic paints can stay good for up to 10 years if not opened and kept from freezing. Leftover paints that have been opened ought to be closed tightly, stored in a cool, dry place and used within two years.

Paint Gone Bad

Paints normally separate into solids and liquid during long-term storage. If you can stir the solids smoothly back into the liquid, then you can most likely use stored paints. However, if the solids have hardened on the bottom of the can and won’t mix with the liquid, then the paint is spoiled and should be discarded. Other indications that older paint has spoiled include a foul odor when the can is opened and visible mold and mildew in the paint.

Touch Ups or Undercoat

If the paints have been in colors you have in your property, keep them for touch ups and repainting of badly soiled areas. If you’ve got small quantities of many different colors, either move the paints into small containers and label them mix the leftovers collectively by paint type and utilize them as an undercoat at a future painting job. If you’ve got a lot of gallons of very good paint you don’t want anymore, provide it to friends, neighbors or relatives. Or contribute the good paint into a charity that does house renovations for needy families.

Paint Disposal

If you can’t use the previous paints give them off, repaint acrylic and latex paints with kitty litter before throwing them off. Mix one part paint and 2 components clay-based kitty mess and stir well. The paint should solidify in about an hour. For undesirable alkyd and oil-based paints, please consult your state or local environmental protection officials for dates and locations of hazardous waste collections.

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How to Paint an Antique Bronze Finish

Transform humdrum, everyday objects by painting them with a faux antique bronze finish. From lamp bases to planters, bookends into light-switch covers, this effortless technique produces a fascinating look of depth. Length of metallic paint in various colors are blended over a base coat, then darkened with a glaze to generate the aged effect. For an even more stunning look, try this complete on bigger projects like a metal bed frame, mantelpiece or focal point wall.

Prepare the surface by cleaning it to remove surface dirt. You do not have to remove the finish unless it’s waxy, greasy or peeling. Surface imperfections add credibility and interest for this faux painting design, so only a light sanding is needed.

Paint the thing using a primer right into the surface. If you’re painting on a slick surface like laminate or metal, use a bonding primer that will adhere nicely. Permit the primer to dry.

Paint the primed surface with glowing golden latex paint, using a brush or roller right into the dimensions of your job. Make sure the surface is completely covered; allow it to dry overnight.

Apply layers of contrasting metallic paint softly pouncing using a clean cotton rag. Dip the rag into crimson metallic paint and lightly dab the paint onto the outside, softening the edges and leaving some regions untouched. Repeat with copper metallic paint, hitting the regions untouched by the red paint and allowing a few copper to float with the red. Finish with a light coating of gold paint, using the rag to add highlights and soften red or copper areas that look overly strong. Permit the surface to dry to the touch.

Prepare a glaze by mixing black latex paint with glazing medium, after the product directions for proportions. You are able to add some brown paint, such as burnt umber, to create a darker coloured glaze. The glaze with a family paintbrush, working in sections. Immediately wipe the glaze off with a clean cotton rag, leaving the darkened weathered along edges and in cracks and crevices in the surface. Repeat on adjacent sections, feathering the edges to prevent a distinct overlap. If you’d like a darker look, employ a second glaze coating after the first has dried to the touch. Permit the glazed piece to dry for 24 hours.

Coat the surface with clear varnish or polyurethane, if desired, to add additional protection. Utilize a matte or non-gloss finish for a more authentic look. Permit the coating to cure for 24 to 72 hours, or according to product directions.

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How to Remove Wax Build-Up on Hardwood Floors

Wax provides great protection for your floor if it is completed with a penetrating sealer, and it can make polyurethane, lacquer and shellac finishes additional shiny when it is fresh. Wax never actually hardens, though, and sooner or later it’ll collect enough dirt to cloud the finish. Moreover, it eventually turns yellow. The solution will be to strip the wax and then apply a fresh coat. This really is a job for a solvent that dissolves wax without affecting the finish, and the National Wood Flooring Association recommends absorbent mineral spirits. Get a few knee pads, since the job involves scrubbing.

Moisten a cloth with mineral spirits, which can be accessible at any hardware store. Rub down a small area of the ground — a place of about two feet square will be all about the right size. Rub with the grain of the wood.

Rearrange the cloth once it becomes filled with wax to reveal a clean portion of it. Moisten the cloth with more mineral spirits and keep rubbing. Continue in this manner until you’ve completed the first part of floor.

Moisten a clean cloth with more mineral spirits and rub the area you just washed. Look at the cloth; if it is yellow, then clean the whole section again. Repeat until a clean fabric stays clean once you rub the area.

Go over the area once again with a pad of 0000 steel wool moistened with mineral spirits. The steel wool will remove wax residue from the timber grain. If the ground has a V-groove, work the steel wool into the groove to remove wax from that point.

Mop the floor with hot water once you’ve stripped all of the wax, then dry the ground with a rag. Do not leave any standing water — it can hurt the finish.

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The Way to Get Water Rumors Out of Wood Tables

A water ring to a hardwood table doesn’t need to signal the end of the table’s life. Accidents happen; a stray teapot or a coffee cup can lead to a white ring which may appear to defy removal. Water rings can often be repaired with regular household items, and you don’t need to be a house handyman. There is no need to toss it out; keep your table from the landfill and also in your house.

Clean the surface of the table using a damp cloth and permit it to dry. Make certain there’s no dust, dirt or deposits on the table surface.

Cover the ring with a clean, plain white 100 percent cotton T-shirt. Lay it flat above the ring, then covering the entire ring. Don’t use a shirt with words or pictures because the colours or ink may bleed through and damage the table. A top notch with polyester content may also discolor the tabletop.

Set your steam iron into the atmosphere just below cotton and let it come up to temperature. Typically, the lights on your iron stop flashing when it is at fever, but to be sure, check the iron operation manual. If your iron doesn’t create a constant stream of steam, then get accustomed to the steam burst attribute and practice using the burst until you can create a pretty constant steam. Make sure that the water heater is complete once you initiate the ring removal; this method uses a lot of steam.

Hold the iron above the T-shirt over the ring. Maintain the iron 1/4 inch over the shirt and permit the steam to penetrate through the top for about 30 seconds. Move the iron about; don’t stop in any 1 location. Don’t set the iron on the T-shirt. Use bursts of steam close together if your iron doesn’t create a constant flow.

Set your iron to the side and permit the T-shirt to trendy. Boost the shirt and examine the ring. If it is still visible, replace the shirt above the ring.

Examine the water reservoir, fill it if required and let the iron come back up to temperature.

Steam the ring a second time. Let the shirt cool before lifting to test. Repeat the procedure if necessary.

Allow the table surface to cool completely before applying any furniture shine if that is part of your table care.

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How to Replace a Rung on a Chair

Among the most damaging forces on the surface of the earth is really a cute little pup. When they are teething, anything that they could reach with their mouth is decent game. The wood rungs on your preferred antique chair appear to get a special appeal to these creatures. Unfortunately, chair rungs are vulnerable to a number of different hazards. Age, accidents or heavy loads can damage or dislodge these significant structural members, turning a piece of furniture to a potential hazard. Replacing a broken rung is simple once you find a tightly matching replacement.

Remove any remaining portion of the aged rung. On old seats, in which the glue is dried and fractured, you may be able to twist the rung out of the socket by hand. If the rung is broken at the surface of the the adhesive is protected, you will need to catch some tools.

Cut the end of the rung about 1/4 inch over the surface of both chair legs. This small amount of space prevents damage to the legs from the tooth.

Pick a drill bit that is about three-fourths of the diameter of the rung and insert it to a drill. Employing a bit that is slightly smaller than the finished diameter of the hole prevents you from accidentally expanding the hole. This could hurt the leg or stop the replacement rung from fitting properly.

Drill the middle part of the rung out of the socket.

Remove the remaining fragments of the rung from the socket with a chisel. Utilize a small chisel to pare the remaining pieces out of the hole. Work carefully. Don’t hurt the walls of the socket.

Soften and remove any excess adhesive. Old glue provides an extremely poor bonding surface to get new adhesive. Removing old glue with sandpaper alone could be a lengthy, tedious process as it quickly loads and glazes the sandpaper. Pour hot water to each socket allow it to soak for a minimum of 10 minutes to soften the old adhesive.

Remove as much of the softened adhesive as possible with a chisel or small screwdriver.

Allow the sockets dry for at least 24 hours. Even hardwood will consume a little bit of water and swell when dampened. Allowing the outlets to dry and return to their original size provides a better, longer-lasting fit for the brand new rung.

Sand the inside of each socket with 100-grit sandpaper. This eliminates the remaining glue and also roughens the inside of the socket to provide a good gluing surface.

Sand each end of the replacement rung lightly. Sand only as much of the rung as will be concealed when it’s put in place.

Apply a light coat of glue to each end of the replacement rung.

Insert the ends of the rung completely into the leg sockets.

Wipe any excess adhesive off the brand new joints with a damp cloth.

Put a bar clamp to the outside of the legs to apply pressure at each end of the rung. Leave the clamp in place for at least 24 hours.

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The way to Tea Stain Lamp Shades

Tea staining gives cloth and paper a gently aged patina without spending a fortune or taking much time. It also changes the expression of a lampshade without introducing harsh chemicals to your property. This method doesn’t work on every kind of fabric or newspaper, so begin with a lampshade made of cotton, linen, or newspaper that’s sturdy enough to handle a little bit of fluid.

Attract 4 or so cups of water to a boil. You’re going to decrease this fluid, therefore begin with more than you believe you need. If you want to begin with more than 4 cups, add another tea bag for each additional cup of water.

Put 4 tea bags to the boiling water and give them a stir. Black tea works best for an antique golden appearance.

Allow the tea steep for 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the tea bags and discard them.

Pull the tea into a very low simmer and let it cook for 20 to thirty minutes. Let it cool for a minimum of 30 minutes.

Place a drop cloth over your work surface to catch drips and spills.

Set your lampshade on a bottle or vase to keep it upright without having to break it on the table. This also allows you to turn the lampshade without demanding it.

Dip your sponge brush to the low tea and blot off the excess on the edge of the grass. Paint the lampshade in even vertical strips.

Even out the places where the brush strokes overlap using a clean, dry shop cloth or old white T-shirt if necessary. A clean, dry staining sponge also works for this.

Allow the tea stain dry completely before deciding in the event that you will need a second coat, since it dissolves darker than as it goes on.

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Peroxide and Baking Soda for Stain Removal in an Engineered Wood Floor

Unlike solid wood flooring boards, engineered boards have just a hardwood veneer, but if the floor is stained, the flooring is fundamentally the same. Pet urine is particularly pernicious, together with the capability to generate unsightly black or white rings or stains. A combination of peroxide and baking soda can remove these.

Bleach Stains With Peroxide

Peroxide is a type of bleach, and although more powerful concentrations are more successful, the peroxide you keep in your medicine cabinet will do the job. To leach out the stain, put a paper towel and spray on the towel with peroxide. The towel should be moist, but not soaked. Leave it on the stain for many hours, then spraying it for more peroxide when it dries out.

Absorb Stains With Baking Soda

Following the peroxide therapy, you will need something to absorb the moisture from the floor and remove the stain, and baking soda is an perfect candidate for your job. It not only consumes, but it also deodorizes. Sprinkle it on the stain after you have removed the paper towel; let it dry immediately, and vacuum it away from the floor. If the first peroxide/baking soda treatment does not deal with the stain, it might take a few more repetitions.

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How to Touch Up Paint After Taking the Tape Off

Fresh paint is among the simplest and most cost-effective ways. The brand new, updated color is also a mood enhancer that brightens a room, making it feel new — without having to change your address. When it is time to pull back the room into order, carefully removing the tape doesn’t guarantee you won’t have to touch up the walls where a number of your specialist painting is raised using the tape. Banish any discouragement as an eagle eye and steady hand will wind any defects up, showing an expertly painted room that adds value to your property.

Assess all of the regions at which the tape was secured to ascertain where touch-up is essential. Select a sunny day to paint so you have the advantage of full lighting. Additionally, a sunny day frequently ensures less moisture in the atmosphere, especially in the Bay Area, allowing the paint to dry quickly.

Distribute the tarp so that one end is flush with the wall under the region that needs retouching. Pull that border of the tarp up and fold it over by roughly 3 inches and then reposition it against the wall. If the tarp pulls away in the wall, then the fold should drop back against the wall, then safeguarding your flooring.

Dampen a cloth or a diaper and wring out excess water. Diapers won’t transfer fuzz or threads to painted walls, trapping lint in the paint.

Pour 1/2 cup of touch-up paint at the cup that is managed. Some home improvement stores sell a hand-held cup, but if you’re not eager to trek into the store for one more tool, a child’s handled drinking cup or a plastic measuring cup that can be forfeited are also suitable.

So about 1/2 inch is submerged dip the tip of the paintbrush. Since you lift the brush out of the paint, gently wipe the excess from either side of the brush against the inside wall of the cup.

Hold the brush deal so that your fingertips are around 3 inches in the bristles, allowing you greater control of the paint stroke. You also ought to hold the brush so the longer tip is nearest to the border that should stay unpainted.

Put the long-angled suggestion about 1 inch forward of and 1/2 inch over the marred area. With precision, then slowly drag the brush throughout the region to be painted, ensuring the bristles fan across and protect the region. Avoid brushing across any place that should stay unpainted, like a baseboard, crown molding or molding. Repeat this step until the paint completely covers every area that needs retouching.

Wipe off any painting errors immediately with the moist cloth, so the paint doesn’t have enough time to set where it is unwanted.

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How to Clean Marker Composing From Leather Chairs

You might view a leather seat as a cozy place to sit down, but to a young kid, it is an art canvas. Writing, scribbles and stains left by markers can be removed from leather in many cases, particularly when the material is still new. It might take several options to take out the ink, depending on the leather and the type of marker.

Disappearing Ink

Blot marker ink up as quickly as possible, especially if it is fresh. Dab — don’t wipe — a paper towel over the composing to consume as much of the material as possible, followed with a damp paper towel. If the marker ink is dry, rub on a cotton ball in rubbing alcohol, then rub the needle, again following the course of the ink line to avoid smearing it. Swap the cotton for a brand new ball since it absorbs the needle. Examine the alcohol in an inconspicuous area of the chair by leaving an alcohol-soaked cotton ball on the leather for many minutes.

Ink Remover Remedy

If the alcohol doesn’t fully remove the ink, a special ink remover designed for leather, and available from many furniture retailers, might be used instead. Pour the ink-removal fluid onto the tip of a cotton swab, and then gently blot the cutter, replacing the cotton swab with a new one as it becomes covered in ink. Dab a bit of the fluid onto a sponge to blot up any remaining needle on the leather.

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