The best way to Root Honeysuckle

Honeysuckles (Lonicera spp.) Really are a smart choice when you need quick coverage from a highly perfumed, vigorous growing, scaling or shrubby plant. Honeysuckles make your landscape come alive with their vibrant color and ambrosial, mildly erotic scent which attracts hummingbirds, bees and butterflies throughout summer. You can begin your honeysuckles inside in early spring by spreading, or rooting them, by planting a wholesome stem by a sturdy, well-producing plant in a fertile growing medium.

Mix together 1 gallon of sphagnum peat moss, 1/2 gallon of coarse perlite, 1/2 gallon of coarse vermiculite and 1 tablespoon of dry, controlled-release 10-10-10 fertilizer at a bucket using a garden fork. Propagating mixes such as this function well for transplanting, germinating and rooting plants because they are sterile and the components have a comparatively uniform shape, weight and texture.

Pour 1/2 gallon of propagation mixture at a 1/2 gallon grass and water until it drains. The growing medium should be moist but not wet. Place the remaining mixture in a sealable container and store in a cool dry place until ready to work.

Wipe the blades of the garden shears using a lint-free cloth moistened with isopropyl alcohol.

Cut a hardy honeysuckle stem just above a pair of healthy leaves using the shears. Make another cut halfway between the next lower leaf joint onto the stem. The growing tip — which part of stem inserted in the spreading mix — should be between 2 inches and 6 inches long. This cut is referred to as a double-eye cutting, as the two opposing leaves resemble the ovoid shapes of a pair of eyes.

Lightly moisten the bottom 1/4 inch of the honeysuckle dip and cutting it from IBA rooting hormone powder. Shake the excess hormone powder in the cutting.

Dig a little hole at the propagation mix that has a little garden trowel deep enough so the cutting edge may support itself without falling over. A good step to go by is digging one-fourth as deep as the cutting edge is extended. For instance, if the cutting is 8 inches long, dig a 2-inch-deep hole at the mixture.

Insert the cutting at the grass and backfill the hole with the mixture, tamping it down quietly. Cover the honeysuckle and the grass using a plastic bag, then securing it with a rubber band near the bottom of the pot.

Place the plant in a space with a temperature between 75 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The honeysuckle will take root in about four to six weeks, and then you’ll be able to transplant it outside. Gently tug on the stem to sense for root resistance, ensuring the roots have begun to form.

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Container Recipe for Geranium Plants

Geranium plants (Pelargonium spp.) Insert bright color, texture and scent to container plantings when among the six big geranium groups is included in the grass. When thinking about geraniums, the zonal geranium (P. x hortorum) most often comes to mind. But other groups include ivy-leaved, angel, regal or Martha Washington, scented and distinctive. Trailing species, such as ivy-leaved geraniums (P. peltatum), add dimension to window boxes and hanging baskets. Scented species offer a sensual encounter beyond visual appeal. All geranium species are half-hardy and require protection when temperatures fall below 36 degrees Fahrenheit. A container recipe for successfully expanding geranium plants includes provision of full sun, a cool root zone, good drainage and a slightly acidic potting mix.

Base Ingredients

Container recipes for growing geraniums are either soil-based or soilless. Soil-based recipes contain one-fourth to one-third garden dirt. Recipes using one-fourth dirt also utilize one-fourth peat moss, coir — coconut hulls — or other similar stuff. Both peat moss and coir decompose gradually, supplying nutrients for healthy plant growth. Peat moss has a pH of approximately 4.0, requiring the addition of stone to raise the potting mix to a pH level between 5.5 and 6.5. Soilless mixes use peat moss, coir or a similar material as the base ingredient.


Geranium plants are subject to mould (Botrytis cinerea), black leg (Fusarium sp.) And black stem rot (Pythium splendens) when the potting medium remains wet and dries out gradually. Excellent drainage is essential for a successful potting mixture recipe, which ought to contain one-fourth to one-third non-organic substance to increase drainage. Fine Gardening specifies perlite as a high-fired volcanic rock that lightens dirt and creates pockets for air and water flow. Coarse river mud also allows for drainage and aeration while supplying a press upon which roots may cling. Playground sand increases friability, or looseness, of a potting mixture. Selection from one of these materials depends upon accessibility and personal option.

Organic Matter

Organic matter offers slow-release nutrients. Compost, composted manure, worm castings, leaf mould and composted pine bark are acceptable as one-third to one-fourth of the quantity of a geranium potting mix. Composted products are not all equal, as organic matter and composting methods vary widely. Just well-composted manure should be used at a container recipe for geraniums.


When potting recipe ingredients are thoroughly blended and slightly moist, a soil test to determine pH level is taken, following soil test maker’s directions. Ground stone is added based on soil test recommendations to increase the pH to 6.5, the optimal level. A small number of charcoal pellets may be added to each gallon of potting mix to reduce odors related to organic matter decomposition. N.C. State University Cooperative Extension advocates the inclusion of 1/2 teaspoon of lawn fertilizer and one teaspoon of dolomitic limestone per 8-inch container of mixture or according to soil test results. Commonly used garden fertilizers are formulas such as 5-10-5 or 6-12-12.

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Tips on Increasing Climbing Hydrangea

You do not see climbing hydrangeas (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris) as frequently as the shrub types, but it’s one of the more stunning members of the hydrangea family. A full-grown climbing hydrangea vine may be up to 75 feet tall and it’s covered with attractive, heart-shaped leaves during summer and spring. The leaves drop in autumn, demonstrating a showy, reddish-brown, exfoliating bark. Fragrant, white flowers blossom in 6- to 8-inch clusters in late summer and spring. Climbing hydrangea is hardy at U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 8.

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Climbing hydrangea grows in full sun or partial shade. The plant isn’t particular about the soil as long as it’s well-drained and not overly alkaline. The leaves turn yellow once the pH is too large. Working powdered sulfur to the soil corrects the issue. You can leave climbing hydrangea to operate across the ground as a ground cover, but it seems its best when it is climbing. Trees and walls make great supports. Trellises have to be hardy to support the huge vines. The vines have strong tendrils that form a firm attachment to nearly any kind of construction. Do not grow the vine against clapboard walls because the tendrils can pull them loose, and avoid walls that require periodic maintenance because the vines do not detach easily. Climbing hydrangea is a great replacement vine for English ivy (Hedera helix), which is an invasive species in many parts of the nation.


You can plant climbing hydrangea in spring or fall. Make sure the plant sits at the ground at the same amount as it did at the container. Water generously after planting but do not fertilize until the following spring. It may take newly transplanted climbing hydrangea vines a year or two to become established, and thus don’t give them up too soon. Seeds germinate readily but take a few years to put on significant growth. The vines grow quickly once established but it may be three to five years before you visit blossoms.

Watering and Fertilizing

Climbing hydrangeas require 1 inch of water a week, either from rainfall or supplemental watering. During hot summers they may need watering more frequently. Keep the soil moist, but do not water so frequently the soil becomes sloping or mushy. A 2-inch layer of compost in spring provides enough nutrients to encourage the plant all year. You might be able to enhance the performance with a mild monthly side dressing table or foliar spray.


Climbing hydrangea is an informal, three-dimensional vine that frequently includes side shoots growing in several directions. This is natural, and part of the charm of the plant. The vines do not require regular pruning except to correct problems. The fragile stems crack and break easily, and you ought to remove damaged components promptly to stop infection. Vines that are allowed to grow beyond their support become top-heavy and may pull off from the break or support. Trim them back in summer, after flowering.

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Flowering Cherry Hedge Plants

The sand cherry (Prunus besseyi), a deciduous flowering shrub, is cold hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 2. The shrub has dark green leaves and grows to a height of 6 feet. You can plant several sand cherry shrubs together to produce a flowering hedge. In the spring, the sand cherry is covered with white blooms later replaced by dark purple edible cherries. Sand cherry resides about 20 decades.

Propagation by Seed

Sand cherry seeds have to undergo cold stratification before planting. The seeds come from ripe cherries, and also are removed, cleaned and dried. They are then placed in moist sand and maintained in a humid atmosphere for 30 to 60 days. After being washed, the seeds should be placed in a plastic bag with a moist paper towel and kept in a refrigerator at 36 to 41 degrees Fahrenheit for 60 to 90 days. After stratification, the seeds are ready for spring sowing.

Propagation by Reducing

Semi-hardwood or softwood cuttings taken in the summer are used to root the sand cherry from cuttings. Several inches are cut from the tip of a stem. The close of the cutting ought to be dipped in rooting hormone and also placed in a small number of well-draining soil to root. Regular misting keeps the soil moist. The cuttings are maintained at 65 to 70 F for four to six weeks before the roots have grown along with the cutting edge can be planted.

Planting Conditions

Cherry shrubs need full sun to correctly set fruit. They won’t grow in the shade. The shrubs endure many soils, however, the very best is a well-draining sandy, loamy soil with a pH between 5.0 and 7.5. They have low water needs and tolerate dry soil. The shrubs should be planted from seed sown 1 to 2 inches below the soil or from cuttings as early in the spring as possible after frosts are no more a threat. A few seeds spaced 2 to 3 inches apart in each location will raise the odds of a thriving plant, and extra plants may be moved or thinned as necessary. Fertilizing having an all-purpose fertilizer according to the label directions will increase plant growth.

Flowering Hedges

For numerous hedges, a 4-foot spacing between plants will provide you shrubs which grow together. Just one shrub is necessary for fruit production, and it’ll begin to bear fruit after about three decades. Insects pollinate the spring-appearing blossoms, and the cherries ripen in the summer. The deep shrub roots can help stabilize sandy soils; the plant is wind-resistant and may be the windbreak. Sand cherries are deciduous, so that they are dormant in the winter months.

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When Does the Annual Sweet Pea Bloom?

The sweet pea (Lathyrus odoratus) fills the garden with fragrance and delicate blossoms. This annual climbing vine is a highly scented ornamental closely associated with the common garden pea. Though the flowers are sweet smelling, sweet peas aren’t an edible crop. Sweet peas flower in the summer in cool climates and at the spring and fall in light Mediterranean climates.

Gentle Climate Planting

Sweet peas like to bloom if the weather is cool. In a Mediterranean climate with light — frequently frost-free — winters and warm summers, the best time to plant is in late summer and early autumn. A late season planting contributes to flowers in winter and early spring. For holiday flowers, get your seeds in the ground by Labor Day. You can also plant quite early in the spring to get an early summer bloom time.

Cold Climate Planting

In regions with cold winters where temperatures often fall below freezing, sweet peas are planted in the spring after the last frost date. By early to mid summer, the fragrant flowers are in full bloom in the garden. Sweet peas are best planted right into the garden bed, however, in regions with a long, cold spring, it is possible to start seeds indoors four to six weeks before the last frost date in your area. By the time that the ground thaws, you will have plants already growing to really go in the ground.

Planting Seeds

The seeds should be planted 1 inch deep in moist soil and spaced 2 to 3 inches apart. Sweet peas germinate best in a ground temperature between 55 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit. You can accelerate germination by soaking the seeds in warm water for 24 hours before planting or by gently nicking the seed coat with a pin or knife. Germination commonly takes 10 to 14 days but can be as fast as two to three days once the seeds have been jammed or nicked prior to planting.

Growing Sweet Peas

When planting sweet peas, a spot in the sun where the soil is shaded by other low-growing plants is ideal. It is one reason sweet peas are so happy in the vegetable garden; they can develop with their roots shaded from the other plants and many vegetable gardens are at a spot that gets lots of sunlight. This climbing annual vine will climb a trellis or climb up corn stalks and end around sunflowers.

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When to utilize Dolomite to Plant Tomatoes

A freshly picked, vine-ripened tomato is hard to rival in the home garden. Rumors grow well and produce wholesome fruit in bigger amounts when grown in slightly acidic soil that’s full of organic matter and contains adequate amounts of calcium and magnesium. Employing dolomite, also called dolomitic lime, can help to adjust soil pH to the desirable range for growing tomatoes. Dolomite also provides and facilitates the availability of soil nutrients to plant roots.

Dolomitic Lime

Dolomite consists mainly of calcium and magnesium, two small nutrients necessary for healthy tomatoes. It is generally obtained from pulverizing limestone. It is useful in the home garden as a soil pH adjuster when applied correctly. Tomato plants absorb the most nutrients in the soil when its pH falls within the desirable range. Dolomite also raises magnesium levels in the soil. In regions with a known magnesium deficiency, this is crucial for growing healthy tomatoes.

Soil Testing

Prior to putting a tomato garden, analyze your soil using a commercial kit or a service in the community area. Acidic soils benefit from prying of dolomite as early as possible before planting. Your soil test results will probably recommend lime amendments at a particular rate to increase soil alkalinity, if necessary. Tomatoes prefer a soil pH of 6.5 to 6.8 for best growth and fruit production. Treating untested dirt with dolomite is dangerous, especially if you garden in an area where soils are proven to be somewhat alkaline.

Soil Partner

Clay and silt soils are generally acidic. They’re also considered “tight” because they are often poor in organic content, leading to compaction and poor origin oxygenation. Conversely, sandy soils may dry too fast. Using dolomite alone may be inadequate to prepare those soils for growing tomatoes. Amending the soil by working in a 3- to 4-inch layer of organic matter like compost or manure to a thickness of 12 inches, together with dolomite, facilitates vigorous tomato root processes, healthier plants and raised fruit production.

Blossom-End Rot

Blossom-end rot is a frequent issue that frustrates many tomato growers. It typically occurs when the dirt is calcium deficient or doesn’t encourage calcium transfer. This occurs most often in soils that are too acidic, especially those with a pH lower than 6. In some instances, calcium presence could be adequate but tomato roots cannot absorb it in case the environment is too acidic. In this case, dolomitic lime is often recommended as the best corrective measure.

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The way to Kill Fungus on Plants

Plant fungus is easily controlled by using preventive measures. If your crops or vegetable crops have become contaminated with fungi, however, you can kill it with a fungicide. Common types of fungus seen on plants consist of powdery mildew, leaf spot, blight, root rot and white mold. Though some fungal disorders do little harm to crops, others who are left untreated can cause the death of the plant. For the best chances of succeeding, treat your plants at the initial signs infection.

Put on a set of goggles, gloves, and a mask prior to using the fungicide. This will protect you from breathing in chemicals or getting them in your eyes.

Prepare a fungicide containing the main ingredient neem oil or jojoba oil, according to the product label. These oils are organic and effective at both preventing and killing fungi. They’re also safe to use on many vegetables and ornamentals.

Spray the contaminated plant thoroughly using the fungicide. You won’t achieve success unless you cover the whole plant, including both sides of the plant’s leaves.

Duplicate applications of this fungicide every seven to ten days before the fungus was completely eradicated.

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Which Material Will Seeds Grow Better in?

The best growing medium for germinating seeds provides the oxygen, encourage, nutrients and water required for seedlings to thrive after they’ve germinated. The individual materials in your potting mix as well as their levels strongly influence the growth of your seed. The best growing medium uses a blend of coarse materials, organic matter and soil additives in equal measures to present the right growing conditions. Understanding the benefits each material supplies allows you to build a growing medium that your seeds may thrive in.


Adding coarse materials to your growing medium increases the pore space between the particles in your soil. This enables water to penetrate the soil and drain off from it faster. Adding fine gravel, coarse sand or perlite to your soil mix helps prevent the soil from getting saturated with water and decreases the formation of harmful fungi in the soil that can cause the seeds to rot.

Organic Material

Incorporating organic material in your potting mix improves the structure of the soil and supplies nutrients that your seeds will utilize as soon as they germinate. Peat moss or completely composted material broken to a fine loamy dirt are great sources of natural material for potting mix. Incorporating soil in the yard may also provide a valuable source of natural stuff.

Soil Planning

The best growing stuff for seeds supplies the conditions your plants need to develop. Acid-loving plants may benefit from the addition of sulfur, which reduces the pH of their soil. You can also utilize soil additives, like vermiculite, to enhance the capability of your soil to store nutrients and water. Potting mixes that have untreated organic stuff can harbor microorganisms that could harm your plants. Sterilizing your growing medium with a heat treatment ensures that your growing medium isn’t harboring anything harmful to your seeds. Spread the expanding medium to a tray and heat it in your oven to 145 degrees Fahrenheit for 40 minutes to dominate most microorganisms.

Seed Germination

Several types of low fertility materials provide an effective way of germinating seeds. Seeds germinated in such materials need immediate fertilization or removal to a more conventional potting mixture after they’ve germinated. Finely textured vermiculite holds water efficiently and supplies a loose texture that allows small seeds to germinate readily. Mixtures of peat moss and vermiculite or perlite additionally provide an effective medium for germinating seeds. Applying a thin layer of these materials above a layer of fertile soil provides a seed bed that offers quick and efficient germination with a fertile growing medium for the origins of the plants that are emerging.

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How to Grow Bottle Brush

Evergreen bottle brush shrubs (Callistemon spp.) Fill gardens throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11 with stunning spring-to-summer color. Cylindrical, bushy-stamened flowers in a assortment of yellow, red or yellow appear brighter against needle-like, gray- to deep-green leaf. Hummingbirds flow to the nectar-rich blossoms. Bottle brush alternatives consist of tidy cultivars, such as 4-foot-high and wide “Compacta,” and 10- to 12-foot shrubs suitable for privacy screens, such as scarlet bottlebrush (C. citrinus). Grown in the perfect place, bottle brush thrives for decades using a minimum of maintenance.

Select a planting site in sunlight with well-drained, dry to moist soil. Bottle brush performs best in acidic to mildly alkaline soils with pH readings between 5.6 and 7.5. Foliage on plants in highly alkaline ground often develops chlorotic, or yellowing, from chlorophyll reduction.

Plant bottle brush at autumn when cooler temperatures decrease pressure in the rooting plant and winter rains help it build with a minimum of supplemental irrigation. Set it at an inward-angled hole measuring three to five times the width of its root ball at the very top and twice its breadth at the base. Make the hole deep enough that the top of the main ball protrudes 1/4 into 1/2 inch over its edge.

Water bottle brush whenever its leaf begins to wilt, or so the top 3 to 4 inches of soil are dry to the touch, during its first growing season. Once its origins are well established, water only during prolonged dry periods. Slow, deep watering using a drip system or soaker hose encourages deep, deep drought-resistant roots.

Feed the tree with a slow-release, 8-8-8 fertilizer in spring and summer. Apply the fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Prune bottle brush straight after its new growth emerges, but prior to the tender tissue has hardened and set flower buds. Pruning to remove spent blossoms also keeps it tidy. After several years, cutting all of the branches to the floor and also providing the tree an extra dose of fertilizer results in vigorous development.

Scrub bottle brush for Dictyospermum scale infestation. The yellowish-brown, 1/16-inch barnacle-shaped pests colonize and consume sap from the tree’s foliage. While they seldom cause enough damage to warrant therapy, blasting the plants using a powerful jet of water removes the insects.

Watch the shrub for yellow leaves, a sign of iron deficiency. Treat the issue by applying iron chelate into the ground at a rate of 0.8 to 1.6 oz per 100 square feet. The program remains effective for up to three years.

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How to Grow Cucumbers in an Unheated Greenhouse

Cucumbers grow best in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11 as a warm-season vegetable. Growing cucumbers in an unheated greenhouse allows a gardener to extend the growing season until the end of November. Even with limited temperature control, greenhouse growing benefits the cucumber plant. With the correct care, cucumber bushes can produce up to 20 pounds of fruit per plant.

Mix together equal parts of potting soil, perlite, peat moss and compost to make loose, fertile ground. Don’t use regular garden soil from the ground, because this could introduce garden pests into the greenhouse. Fill big shallow containers using the soil mixture.

Prune back each young cucumber plant using a sharp knife so that only the strongest branch is left. Remove the plants in their nursery containers and then transplant them in the center of each ready container. Each cucumber plant requires 6 square foot of space.

Punch holes at the backs of the containers and thread a heavy duty string through each hole. Run the string up to the horizontal supports overhead at the greenhouse. As the cucumber plants grow, train them up the string trellis.

Water the ground around the base of each plant until the water drains out the bottom. Don’t water the cucumber crops again until the top inch of soil is dry. Don’t let the containers dry all of the way out, because it will kill the roots of the cucumber plants. Watering during the morning or early afternoon is greatest; it allows the plants to dry off before the greenhouse cools at night.

Cool off the greenhouse during the hottest days, using enthusiasts. The perfect temperature for growing cucumbers is between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and no lower than 65 degrees Fahrenheit during the evening. Don’t let the greenhouse temperature hit over 95 degrees Fahrenheit — this will stop fruit development.

Feed the cucumber crops using a fertilizer formula constructed for vegetables one week after the plants start blooming. Use water-soluble fertilizer or slow-release fertilizer every three weeks after the first dose. Follow the instructions on the package to prevent overfeeding the cucumber crops, which stunts the development of the fruit.

Pollinate the cucumber crops by massaging each blossom that has a small soft paintbrush. Normal pollination is carried on by bees from the garden. Check the cucumber number to see if they want pollination. Certain types do not require pollination to produce fruit.

Pick the fruit when it’s 6 inches in length or smaller. Should you allow the fruit to grow on the vine for too long, then the cucumbers turn yellowish; skin gets tough; big seeds develop inside; and fruit production lessens.

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