Category: Furnishings

How to Clean Mini Blinds and Verticals

Whether mini blinds or vertical blinds rule your roost, dust leaves them somewhat less than lovely if left uncleaned for a while. The way used to clean either surface depends on what the blinds are constructed of: metal or plastic mini blinds gain from a gentle, damp cleaning, whilst wood mini blind or fabric vertical blinds fare much better with completely sterile procedures.

Wipe It Off

A feather duster, soft cloth or static dustcloth eliminates dust out of smooth mini-blind surfaces, such as wood, aluminum or vinyl. Close the blinds so the bottom of every slat faces you, then wipe from top to bottom. Open the blinds and shut them the other way, or so the very top of every slat reaches you, then repeat the process. This method does not work as well on fabric.

Suction Option

A vacuum cleaner removes dust, dirt and cobwebs from all types of mini blinds and vertical blinds. Use the crevice tool to reach into corners of the window frame, in which blinds match frame, then switch over to a brush attachment to clean the actual blind surfaces. Clean mini blinds by shutting the blinds in 1 direction, cleaning, then flipping them closed the opposite way, cleaning . For vertical blinds, work with the blinds open and vacuum every panel from top to bottom, covering both sides of every blind.

Wet Cleaning

Vinyl, painted or metal mini blinds or vertical blinds might be cleaned with a damp sponge and mildly soapy water, even if overly dirty. Cover the floor or windowsill under the blinds with a plastic tarp to catch dripping water. Add a squirt or two of mild dish soap to a bucket of lukewarm water, then dip in a sponge and wring it out. Wipe the blinds, 1 side at a time, beginning at the top and working your way down, with blinds in a closed place. Wring the sponge out frequently to avoid spreading dirt. Once completed with one side, flip the blinds the other way and wash them . With vertical blinds, each side of a vane or board can be cleaned simultaneously by using a towel or two sponges, holding one hand on both sides of each plank, working your way down. Dry any type of blind with a soft cloth afterwards.

Simple Tips

Keep the window sliding door closed while cleaning blinds to avoid dust or debris blowing around the room as you work. Wash the door or window screen before cleanup blinds by massaging the inside-facing surface with the brush attachment; a clean screen ends in blinds that remain clean longer. Spot-clean fabric blinds with a cloth dipped in a mild soapy solution; check with the manufacturer for cleaning tips specific to your brand and model of dividers to get optimum results.

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Procedures for Marble Restoration

A person may purchase a house that needs some fixing up. The new owner sees the beauty and potential in the house and the marble surfaces which became damaged and dull over time. As the new owner, you can hire professionals. If your plan is to do the job yourself, marble recovery entails a couple of crucial procedures.


It is crucial to understand that marble is a limestone, although a lot of men and women think that it is granite. In fact, marble is much thicker than granite, therefore it stains and wears down considerably easier as well. Not all organic stones are equivalent, and each requires different cleaning procedures. Never use vinegar to clean marble as sterile substances etch and dull marble surfaces. Clean marble surfaces with a pH-neutral dish soap or transparent ammonia diluted with water. You can use acetone on dark marble or hydrogen peroxide on light marble for those stubborn stains.


If the damaged surface is masonry tile, then use a handheld oscillating tool with a grout removal blade to remove the grout and ruined piece of the tile. Replace the tile with a fresh one. Fix cracks in marble surfaces with a marble repair compound from your regional home improvement center or marble trader. Leave huge repairs or complete resurfacing up to the professionals.


Marble floors with high heeled areas become dull when organic crystals within the rock erode from abrasion of soil, sand and shoes. Honing is part fixing and part polishing. Perform honing with abrasive pits or stones attached to a handheld oscillating tool. This process leaves a smooth finish but not shiny as with polishing.


Polishing gives marble its sheen and follows the cleaning, repairing and honing procedures. First, employ a marble stripper by following the instructions on the bottle. Rinse the masonry surface twice with clean water and allow it to dry completely. If you are doing the job yourself, rent a floor buffer for marble floors and apply the gloss in 3-by-3-foot segments, using a side-by-side movement. For other marble surfaces, a tiny rotary buffer or car buffer will get the job finished. Polishing typically requires three applications to accomplish a large, even gloss.


Because bathroom and kitchen countertops come in contact with acidic or greasy substances like ketchup, lemons and cosmetics, sealing them is probably the best way to protect them. Employ stone sealants annually to shut pores in the masonry and protect the surface from harm.

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How to Restore a Porcelain Kitchen Sink

Porcelain sinks need special cleaning and care to keep them looking fresh. Strong abrasive cleansers can dull the sink’s end, harm its topcoat and take years away from the life — but they could help during the restoration process. Even common household cleansers like baking soda or ammonia can damage the finish to a porcelain sink as time passes. However, not all is lost when you use a refinishing product to restore your porcelain kitchen sink into a like-new condition.

Clean the sink thoroughly with an abrasive cleanser and seams. Rinse and towel dry. This removes surface dirt and grime.

Mask off the surrounding region with painter’s tape and plastic sheeting.

Eliminate the metal drain in the sink. Detach the pipe drain first by unscrewing the large nut on the pipe only under the drain. Pull back on the pipe quietly to get rid of it in the sink.

Unscrew the large nut just beneath the sink which keeps the metal flange and metal drain set up. Turn it counterclockwise to remove it. Set the large nut apart.

Push upward from below or use a flat-head screwdriver to pry all the way around the rim of the drain flange to loosen it by the contractor’s putty which forms a seal between the drain flange and the sink. Lift the metal drain in the sink. Set a large bucket under the drain hole to catch any drips or spills while cleaning and restoring the sink.

Apply the putty knife to remove all of caulk or plumber’s putty in the sink. Hold the putty knife at about a 45-degree angle into the material requiring elimination. Scrape against it to lift it up. Discard from the trash.

Employ a hard-water deposit remover into the sink and rinse with the abrasive pad. Rinse and repeat till all hard-water deposits are gone. Wear rubber gloves and goggles for protection.

Sand the surface of the sink with wet-dry 400- to 600-grit sandpaper. Buff in small circles across the full surface of the sink. Scratching the surface of the sink with the sandpaper allows the epoxy finish paint to stick to this sink. Rinse the sink clean to remove residue.

Wipe the sink with the tack cloth to remove any excess seams or seams on the sink caused by the sandpaper before applying the epoxy finish.

Mix the two components of this refinish epoxy together after package instructions. Pour the mix into the paint tray. Don’t do this ahead of time; wait till you’re ready to coat the sink with the epoxy paint. Wear a N95 face mask to protect against breathing in potentially toxic fumes.

Apply the epoxy finish into the sink with a fine-bristle masonry brush, a short nap roller or a airless sprayer if you’ve got one. Avoid overlapping regions with an excessive amount of epoxy. Wait a minumum of one hour prior to applying a second coat. Allow the sink dry up to three days prior to reassembly and work with. Wash up with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits.

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How to Stain Wicker or Rattan Furniture

Wicker, made of rattan reed, willow, paper fiber or other natural materials, holds stain beautifully, letting you customize the finish of your favorite furniture. An sloping wood stain is a breathtaking way to give wicker a classic look, but fabric dye is also a chance, enabling you to color your furniture without painting it.

Go the wicker to an outside, covered work area and put it on a big tarp or drop cloth. Vacuum the piece thoroughly to remove any dust. In a large bucket, dilute mild soap in warm water until it hardly suds. Wet a rag in the solution, wipe the lipstick down down and let it dry completely. To help in the process, point a box fan in the furniture or strategy cleaning for a windy day. Don’t enable the wicker dry in direct sunlight, as this can make the fibers brittle.

Inspect the wicker and quite gently sand any sharp or rough areas having 80-grit sandpaper. Wipe the area with a damp rag to remove dust.

Apply a liquid sanding product into your furniture according to manufacturer instructions. This may soften any remaining varnish or lacquer, allowing the stain to penetrate the wicker. Let this dry completely before moving.

Mix a can of stain in a color of your choice thoroughly, or blend 1/2 cup liquid cloth wax with two cups extremely hot water. Traditional oil-based wood stain will create a classic, natural look, whilst fabric dye enables you to play with color without painting.

Apply the stain into the wicker with a dense brush, working from the top down. Take the opportunity to perform the stain into the wicker’s crevices and lines, but be cautious not to create any drips. Let the stain sit for the amount of time recommended by the producer and wipe off the excess with a soft, clean rag. When dealing with fabric dye, it’s necessary that the water remains hot constantly. Mix a brand new batch of dye as necessary so the water stays warm.

Let the stain dry for several hours and then flip the furniture over. Lightly apply stain to some bare areas on the underside of the furniture for the even finish, if applicable. Let the stain sit for the identical length as the first coat, and then wipe off the excess. Let the furniture dry for 24 hours.

Apply an even coat of clear lacquer or varnish according to manufacturer instructions. Spray varieties are easiest, particularly with wicker, but brush-on software are just as acceptable. Let this coat dry completely.

Add liquid wax into a small dish. Dip a dense brush into the wax and then implement this evenly into the wicker according to manufacturer instructions. Wait 15 to 20 minutes, or the length of time recommended by the producer, and buff away any excess with a very soft brush. The combination of liquid wax and transparent varnish or lacquer protects the brand new stain and also provides wicker a shiny finish.

Refrain from sitting on or employing the striped furniture for three to five days. This enables the new finish to heal.

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How to Repair a little Surface Chip at a Fiberglass Tub

Fiberglass tubs are usually lasting and affordable, but accidents can happen. In case you have a little chip at the surface of your tub, you can fix it yourself having an epoxy-based ceramic repair kit. To get a good color match, buy tinted epoxy, then tint it yourself or paint over the area having a waterproof epoxy paint. The finish may not be as perfect as a professional repair job, but it can save you a lot of money and hassle.

Wash the chipped area thoroughly with rubbing alcohol and a cloth. Use plastic packing tape to mask the area surrounding the chip.

Open the windows to ventilate the toilet and turn on the exhaust fan if you have one. Wear rubber gloves and then mix the epoxy and hardener using a spatula based on the manufacturer’s instructions, but do not add the thickener yet. Save a small amount of unmixed epoxy and hardener for later use.

Apply a little bit of epoxy to the chipped area with a little paintbrush. This aids the thickened epoxy adhere to the fiberglass surface.

Insert the thickener to the epoxy and then stir till it reaches a thick, creamy consistency. To tint the epoxy, then add 1 drop of acrylic paint pigment at a time and blend it thoroughly till it reaches the desired color. Apply the epoxy to the chipped area with the spatula and smooth it out. Allow the epoxy to cure for at least five hours or overnight.

Wear a dust mask and then sand the epoxy to a smooth finish with 180-grit sandpaper, avoiding the surrounding area as much as you possibly can. Wipe off excess dust with a damp cloth.

Mix a little bit of epoxy and hardener without thickener and apply it to the full area to seal it. Let it cure for at least five hours or overnight.

Wet-sand the full area using 180-grit sandpaper till you have a smooth finish, and wipe off the dust with a damp cloth. To paint the mend, mixture epoxy paint based on the manufacturer’s instructions and apply it to this area with a little paintbrush. Allow the paint to fully dry before using the tub.

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The way to Install Acoustic Sealant for Drywall

Just as it’s desired to seal a home against infiltration by heat, cold and air pollution, it’s often desirable to seal noise out, too. In fact, audio often follows the exact same route energy and air does to seep in and out of a structure. Sound transmits through little gaps in joints between drywall sheets and in which parts like electrical outlets and switch boxes penetrate drywall. One step to decrease noise infiltration is to use acoustic sealant around the perimeter of drywall sheets in new construction before tape and drywall joint compound are implemented. Although acoustic sealant applies and appears comparable to standard caulk, it preserves a tacky flexibility for many years, maintaining its exceptional noise-dampening properties.

Ensure that the drywall surface is dry and clean before applying acoustic sealant. Drywall typically creates a huge number of dust that can be wiped off from joint surfaces using a soft cloth or broom before applying sealant and installing sheets to framing.

Load a tubing of acoustic sealant to a typical quart-sized caulking gun.

Apply a 1/4-inch bead of sealant around all edges of a sheet of drywall.

Install the drywall on the framing, making sure the cohesive sealant fills the gap between the drywall and the floor and ceiling, squeezing out as the panel is installed.

Apply a 1/4-inch bead of acoustic sealant around all edges of the next sheet of drywall. Install the sheet so it firmly abuts the previous sheet and acoustic sealant squeezes out of the intersecting combined, in addition to the joint in which the drywall matches the ground and ceiling.

Apply a 1/4-inch bead of acoustic sealant to the combined where partial drywall sheets terminate against window and door frames.

Scrape off excess acoustic sealant that has squeezed out of joints using a putty knife immediately following installation of every panel. Since the flux stays tacky and pliable, any remaining amount may interfere with the adhesion of drywall tape and joint compound. Standard artificial latex rubber acoustic sealants have a tooling period of about 15 minutes after application. During this time, residue can be easily wiped off using a putty knife or wiped off with a moist rag. Butyl rubber sealants stay tacky and never put. Residue from these can be removed with a rag soaked with paint thinner.

Coat the interior perimeter of cutouts in drywall made to accommodate electrical outlets or switches using acoustic sealant, and install the boxes before the sealant sets. Standard artificial latex rubber acoustic sealants have a tooling period of about 15 minutes after application. During this time, residue can be easily wiped off using a putty knife or wiped off with a moist rag. Butyl rubber sealants stay tacky and never put. Residue from these can be removed with a rag soaked with paint thinner.

Fill any gaps bigger than 1/4-inch around drywall joints or gaps inside corners using loose-cell stitch stuff or backer rod before applying acoustic sealant to complete the filling. Width of the backer rod utilized should be double the width of the gap to be caulked. Continue the process until all drywall within the room is set up along with the room is sealed airtight with acoustic sealant.

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The way to Refurbish High Back Seats

As a do-it-yourself fan, you can save the cost of new seats by refurbishing antique or contemporary wooden high-back seats which have seen better days. Furniture polish or furniture oil may restore some seats. But over time, these might not conceal blemishes in the wood. With a little more effort, you are able to shred rundown seats and have them looking like new. The best place for your job is really a garage, a covered terrace which has great ventilation.

Spread a cloth dropcloth on the ground and position the chair on its side on the cloth. Determine how any chair cushion or back cushion are secured in place. Remove screws or clips using a screwdriver and remove the cushions. Alternatively, cut pieces of thin plastic dropcloth with scissors and secure them in the edges of the cushions using masking tape.

Expand the remaining portion of the plastic dropcloth on the cloth cloth and set the chair on the plastic. Put on latex gloves and a dust mask.

Apply a coat of paint stripper on all wooden surfaces of this chair, using a utility paintbrush. Tilt the chair forward and balance it on the upper edge of the high back to employ stripper in the rear and upper ends of their legs. Permit the stripping agent to take effect for 20 minutes or until it stops bubbling up paint or masonry.

Remove the stripper in the wood with rags. Remove stripper in bows and crevices with steel wool at the direction of the wood grain. Wipe down the wood surfaces, crevices and grooves with a sponge and clean water. Rinse the sponge as you go to make sure all the stripper is eliminated. Permit the wood to dry.

Cut strips that the 200-grit sandpaper to match on a sanding block. Sand with the grain of this wood using extended, uniform strokes to reach uniformity. Cut 6-inch square bits of 200-grit sandpaper, fold the pieces in half and sand all of crevices and grooves. Thoroughly remove irregular sanding debris from all of wood surfaces, grooves and crevices using a clean rag and dry paintbrush.

Determine the kind of finish for the wood, like paint or stain and a clear coat. To get a paint finish, shake a can of epoxy spray paint vigorously for one minute and remove the cap. Hold the can six inches in the wood and utilize sweeping strokes to spray on a uniform coat onto the wood. Allow the paint to dry for one hour and apply a second coat.

Stain the sanded wood surfaces one at a time, using a paintbrush. Use generous amounts of stain every time you dip the brush at the stain. Combine the stain into a uniform finish and lightly wipe the stain at the direction of the wood grain using a rag. Use a small amount of stain in crevices and grooves for the best results. Allow the stain to dry immediately.

Apply a coat of clear urethane spray on the stained hardwood. Hold the can six inches in the wood and utilize uniform strokes to prevent buildups. Permit the coat to dry and apply a second coat. Allow it to dry before removing the vinyl safety and masking tape or re-attaching the cushions.

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How to Change the Colour of Pressed Wood Particle Board

It’s uncommon to see exposed particleboard as a building material; it’s more common to see that it covered with a plastic or wood veneer. There’s no rule against making tables and cabinets with exposed particleboard, though — although its shade when unfinished is somewhat unattractive. You can change that using a stain. Particleboard is quite porous, so it’s vital that you seal it to permit the stain to soak in evenly.

Clean out the particleboard with detergent and waterand rinse it with clean water and let it dry. You do not need a strong detergent — 1 oz of dish soap in a gallon of water will do.

Don safety glasses. Sand the surface, including the borders, with an orbital sander and 120-grit sandpaper. Clean off the surface using tack cloth when you’re done.

Ventilate the area. Don a face mask. Mix a 50-50 solution of varnish and turpentine to use as a sealer. Paint one coat of the sealer on the surface using a paintbrush and then wait for it to dry immediately.

Apply your selection of gel or liquid stain. Wipe it on liberally using a rag, let it soak in for approximately five minutes, then wipe off the excess with another rag.

Paint a coat of water- or even oil-based varnish, shellac or brushable lacquer to repair the stain.

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