The way to Install Acoustic Sealant for Drywall
Just as it’s desired to seal a home against infiltration by heat, cold and air pollution, it’s often desirable to seal noise out, too. In fact, audio often follows the exact same route energy and air does to seep in and out of a structure. Sound transmits through little gaps in joints between drywall sheets and in which parts like electrical outlets and switch boxes penetrate drywall. One step to decrease noise infiltration is to use acoustic sealant around the perimeter of drywall sheets in new construction before tape and drywall joint compound are implemented. Although acoustic sealant applies and appears comparable to standard caulk, it preserves a tacky flexibility for many years, maintaining its exceptional noise-dampening properties.
Ensure that the drywall surface is dry and clean before applying acoustic sealant. Drywall typically creates a huge number of dust that can be wiped off from joint surfaces using a soft cloth or broom before applying sealant and installing sheets to framing.
Load a tubing of acoustic sealant to a typical quart-sized caulking gun.
Apply a 1/4-inch bead of sealant around all edges of a sheet of drywall.
Install the drywall on the framing, making sure the cohesive sealant fills the gap between the drywall and the floor and ceiling, squeezing out as the panel is installed.
Apply a 1/4-inch bead of acoustic sealant around all edges of the next sheet of drywall. Install the sheet so it firmly abuts the previous sheet and acoustic sealant squeezes out of the intersecting combined, in addition to the joint in which the drywall matches the ground and ceiling.
Apply a 1/4-inch bead of acoustic sealant to the combined where partial drywall sheets terminate against window and door frames.
Scrape off excess acoustic sealant that has squeezed out of joints using a putty knife immediately following installation of every panel. Since the flux stays tacky and pliable, any remaining amount may interfere with the adhesion of drywall tape and joint compound. Standard artificial latex rubber acoustic sealants have a tooling period of about 15 minutes after application. During this time, residue can be easily wiped off using a putty knife or wiped off with a moist rag. Butyl rubber sealants stay tacky and never put. Residue from these can be removed with a rag soaked with paint thinner.
Coat the interior perimeter of cutouts in drywall made to accommodate electrical outlets or switches using acoustic sealant, and install the boxes before the sealant sets. Standard artificial latex rubber acoustic sealants have a tooling period of about 15 minutes after application. During this time, residue can be easily wiped off using a putty knife or wiped off with a moist rag. Butyl rubber sealants stay tacky and never put. Residue from these can be removed with a rag soaked with paint thinner.
Fill any gaps bigger than 1/4-inch around drywall joints or gaps inside corners using loose-cell stitch stuff or backer rod before applying acoustic sealant to complete the filling. Width of the backer rod utilized should be double the width of the gap to be caulked. Continue the process until all drywall within the room is set up along with the room is sealed airtight with acoustic sealant.